Volterra Italy – austere architecture and massive fortress

Volterra – city of Etruscan foundation

Certainly plays Volterra Pisa a special role among the countless beautiful cities of Italy and is comparable, if at all, only to a few other places.

Its exposed strategic location alone is an indication of its Etruscan origin. So it is no surprise that Volterra was a central point of the Etruscan Empire at that time. Furthermore an especially exemplary for this epoch.
The proud patrician houses today also show us the importance of Volterra in the Middle Ages.

Volterra and its location

Situated 550 metres above sea level up high on the hill, strongly fortified behind defiant walls and impressive gates (still preserved today). The city is visible from far away and dominates the entire area. It enjoys a magnificent view which, with clear weather, reaches as far as the Apuan Alps and the Mediterranean Sea. This is about 50 km away, and even as far as Corsica. With this location Volterra had and has everything under control – then as now.

Volterra is situated high on a chain of hills, around itself a beautiful and harsh landscape, in the immediate vicinity marked by the famous “Balze” (steep slopes). The cliffs are rugged and bizarrely sloping due to landslides, from a remarkable play of light brown tones to lilac colours. It is assumed that the landslides over the centuries have dragged many things down into the depths burying whole districts underneath. This is how Volterra presents itself to visitors from afar with its dominant fortifications.

Volterra is considered the oldest city in Italy in the Etruscan League of Cities
and can look back on almost 3000 years of history.

The Etruscan culture is best documented in the Museo Etrusco Guarnacci. And incorporated into our present day through the famous Etruscan Gate of the Porta all’Arco from the 4th century BC.

The Roman period is remembered mainly by the well-preserved ruins of the Parco Archeologico. And of course the Roman amphitheatre from the time of Emperor Augustus, which can be admired from above.

The Palazzo dei Priori on the main square of Piazza dei Priori is also noteworthy. It is considered the oldest preserved town hall in Tuscany and is probably also particularly characteristic of the austere architecture of the city.

Volterra Pisa today

Volterra is also known for its fine alabaster processing. Here the original Etruscan tradition has been resumed, both in the processing of the material and in the reproduction of old forms. Today, in addition to these historical forms, there are of course many new handmade products in the workshops exposed. Most of them  keep up with the spirit of todays time, if only they can be marketed in some way.

Some of the workshops can be visited – many in the city itself, others along the streets up to Volterra. There you will be shown the basics of today’s machining, mostly combined with a small workshop-related show room. Furthermore  to more profane works, produced in larger quantities, you can also see and buy enchanting, extremely tasteful and in style timeless results of the manufactories everywhere in and around Volterra.

Additionally to this fine alabaster art, one should not forget to take a look at the outstanding bronze processing of the Etruscans. In literature there is a very special mention of a small figure of a young man. Absolutely overstretched in length, but known as Ombre della Sera. Some see it as an anticipation of Manirism developed thousands of years later.

A city with a special atmosphere

But what makes Volterra stand out from almost everything else today is the overall impression. The special atmosphere that characterizes the city in all seasons and at all times of the day and that captivates the visitor involuntarily. Defiant, almost defiantly hostile, dormant in itself and intent on maintaining its own style, not gloomy but serious. A city that pretends to be self-sufficient and skeptical of anything new-fashioned, even rejecting it.

All this makes the town in Pisa unique and absolutely authentic and impresses its visitors again and again. Volterra is one of Tuscany’s larger cities, characterized by its unmistakable architecture. Its Etruscan origins, still visible today, and a long Roman period.
As Siena, Volterra did not go through the Renaissance. They were mindful of their own past and let the “hustle and bustle” of the Renaissance pass by in architecture as well – almost as if they wanted to let it all bounce off them.

The most exclusive restaurant in Volterra is fully booked weeks in advance.

The old Medici fortress of Volterra, Fortezza Medicea, today serves as a prison for criminals who have been sentenced to at least 7 years, so quite “heavy boys”. So it may come as a surprise at first that in the winter months there are 6 to 8 appointments for guests to have festive dinners, which are hosted by the inmates under the leadership of renowned external chefs and great internal chefs.

Guests report about a strange, but then increasingly relaxed atmosphere and a culinary high-quality experience.
The special safety precautions are comprehensible, e.g. the guests have to be “frisked” before participation and there are plastic cutlery.
The whole affair has been brought to life as an important part of the rehabilitation of the inmates and has apparently already produced good results. A number of people who have been dismissed in the meantime are already working successfully in the catering sector in Volterra.

At first glance it seems to be rather bizarre. But the guests rave about the quality of what was offered in a pleasant atmosphere in the beautifully covered area of the fortress/prison chapel and are convinced of the underlying idea. So if you are in Volterra at the right time, you should not miss this extraordinary opportunity.

Info – Food & Drink in Volterra Pisa
Further information about eating in prison – Volterra > Wikipedia

To order tickets for this event “Cene Galeotte”:

Snacks & more:
– Ristorante Etruria – in the Piazza dei Priori opposite the Palazzo, good for a midday snack, you don’t eat badly there
– VolaterrA – Weinbar with Crostini & Co. – opposite the Palazzo
– or a good Fast-Food: Panineria Al Vicolino – Via delle Prigioni 2